 Step 1:
Anchoring For a conventional concrete floor slab, place steel 3/8" re- bar at 15" (40cm) distance where walls are to be built. These bars must jut out 15" (40 cm) off the slab, preferably anchored to the original foundation (if your slab is already built, you may use a drill and epoxy adhesive to install them or use shear studs or receivers.)
 Step 2:
Panel pre-assembly Join the first set of two or three panels using 16 gauge galvanized clips or annealed wire every 15" on each side, and then reinforce this union by placing the 4" Covintec - Thermal Impac Panel joint mesh also on both sides, fixing them to the panel on a zig-zag fashion every 12" alternatively.
 Step 3:
Placing the panels Walls built using Covintec- Thermal Impac Panel panels are slid by inserting steel bars, which must be installed between the mesh and the insulation. It is recommended to partially cut or burn the insulation that will be left around the bars to ease their installation and improve mortar adherence once applied. Then, tie the bars to the panel mesh using annealed wire and pliers.
Step 4:
Extensions and corners Same as in panel pre-assembly, each additional panel must be joined using joint mesh on both sides. When doing corners, use corner mesh and tie it using clips or galvanized annealed wire on both sides.
 Step 5:
Reinforcing doors and windows Doors and windows can be cut using pliers or cutting discs. To avoid cracks and strengthen your construction, you must reinforce door and window spaces on both all edges on both sides and inside the interior of the space using 3" Covintec-Thermal Impac Panel trusses.
 Step 6:
Water and electrical pipe installation After removing the insulation with a knife or plumber's torch in the area where pipes are to be installed, place or slide in the pipes between the mesh on both sides until reaching their final location. The unused area will be filled with mortar during plastering, so to achieve savings while plastering, cut only the required insulation area. If cuts must be made to install piping, fill the openings with joint mesh before plastering.
 Step 7:
Wall alignment and plumbing You must make sure your wall is accurately plumbed and aligned before plastering. To do this, use conventional wall braces or strut . Very important. Out of plumb walls will increase mortar consumption and increase costs.
 Step 8:
Initial wall plastering Using the plasterer's trowel with a mortar mix made with four parts sand and one part portland cement, plaster the first cement layer making it 1/2" thick. For quick reference, this thickness mortar leaves the wire partially uncovered. Low pressure shotcrete cure with water during the next 48 hours finish with an additional 1/2" of mortar. To complete your construction faster, you may use a cement gun operated with a 7HP air compressor. This could increase your plastering productivity from 250 square feet per workday to 1,000 square feet per work day.
Step 9:
Installing conventional roofs (Please refer to arquitecturat drawing download and ICC Report) You may use any type of roof. If you choose to use beams, cut the section depending on the size of the beam. Running a 3/8" bar through the wide side of the beam and tying it to the best way? panel using annealed wire or leftover Covintec-Thermal Impac Panel wire pieces (this bar must be placed between the mesh and the insulation) is an alternative to affix the beams and avoid welding. After that, apply plaster to affix it. You must concur to your local codes for an appropiate design.
Step 10:
Final wall plastering Once the first plaster layer is dry (after a minimum of 24 hours) proceed to finish with the additional 1/2" inch the second plastering layer, applying the desired finish. Your mortar layer must be of least 1 " thick overall. After applying the final finish, walls must be cured on both sides by applying water for at least 72 hours. Depending on your local climatic conditions.
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